Cold, clear winter nights are the ideal conditions for spotting the elusive aurora australis, also known as the Southern Lights. At the bottom of the South Island – about a three-hour drive from Queenstown – the port town of Bluff is one of the best places in the world for watching the spectacular natural phenomenon. Or take a ferry further south to wild Stewart Island (Rakiura). A Dark Sky Sanctuary, “rakiura” means “glowing skies” in te reo Māori.

Winter’s a great time to fly over the Southern Alps with Mackenzie Helicopters, thanks to the snow that covers the cinematic ranges. Taking off near sapphire-blue Lake Tekapo  – almost three hours drive south-west of Christchurch and three hours north-east of Queenstown – the 60-minute flight ends at a toasty-warm alpine hut named The Bad Decision, the world’s highest whisky bar. Indulge in local nibbles such as salmon and venison and sip international tipples including 25-year-old Glenfarclas while taking in 360-degree views of the surrounding peaks.

About three hours by car south-east of Auckland, Rotorua is famed for its steamy hot springs. Of the many places to soak, the constant bubbling of Hell’s Gate is unforgettable. Don’t let the name fool you: the warm geothermal mud and mineral-rich waters are divine.

For the ultimate New Zealand adventure, experience the lava flows, steam vents and emerald lakes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, in the central North Island, on an eight-hour guided tour. Ice axes, crampons, helmets, hiking boots and winter clothing are provided and both private and group expeditions are available.

Larnach Castle – outside Dunedin, about 3.5 hours south-east of Queenstown – is like something out of a fairytale. Originally built in 1871 and restored over the years, the stately hilltop residence is especially enchanting when the landscape is dusted with snow. For dinner, pop into the castle’s dining room for a four-course menu that changes according to the chef’s whim and highlights locally sourced produce and New Zealand wines. Want to live out your royal dream? You can stay overnight, too.

Wellington has more eateries per capita than New York and its intimate atmosphere feels even cosier in winter. Just round the corner from Cuba Street, inside a pair of colourful and historic cottages, Havana Bar has a stellar tapas menu – think chipotle-glazed grilled octopus and beef skewers with apple and celery. Throughout the month of August, Wellington On a Plate sees restaurants offer special seasonal dishes – there’s even a best burger competition that runs during the festival (don’t miss sampling last year’s winner, the Goan Chicken Ros Pao burger at One80 Restaurant).

If you want to escape the chill, Auckland and the subtropical Far North are pleasantly mild in winter compared to their southern counterparts, with temperatures ranging from 8℃ to 16℃. Explore the winery-dotted Waiheke Island, walk along the Far North’s sandy beaches (which are also great for surfing), go sailing around the Coromandel Peninsula (NZ’s answer to the Hamptons), immerse yourself in cinematic history at Hobbiton or explore Auckland without the summer crowds.

Matariki is the Māori New Year, which was officially established as a nationwide public holiday in 2022. The date changes every year and is based on when the Matariki cluster of stars – also known as the Pleiades – reappears in the sky. In 2024, it will be celebrated on 28 June. In the lead-up, each of New Zealand’s major cities will offer special cultural events; In Wellington there’s food, performances and projections. It’s an immersive way to learn about Aotearoa’s First Nations culture.

Home to the stunning Milford Sound, which Rudyard Kipling called the “Eighth Wonder of the World”, the Fiordland National Park is about two hours by car from Queenstown. The park is an ideal destination in winter as you’ll have the wilderness almost completely to yourself. On foot, you might trek across snow in the mountains and spot mist rising from the glassy surface of water but if you’d prefer something more leisurely, you can also book a two-night cruise.

Boarding a helicopter at Mount Cook Airport – about three hours north-east of Queenstown – and landing on the 101-square-kilometre Tasman Glacier for a guided walk feels even more appropriate in winter. The highlight? Being led into a glowing ice cave that only exists when it’s cold enough to stay frozen solid.

Not just the perfect conditions for spotting the aurora australis, cold and clear winter nights in New Zealand are also ideal for stargazing. A stunning spot for this is Mackenzie Country near Tekapō, three hours north-east of Queenstown. Soak in hot pools while counting the stars – even without a telescope you can catch the delicate swirls of the Milky Way against the dark sky. 

The country’s charming heritage towns are even lovelier in winter. Among the most beautiful is Arrowtown, along a meandering river a 20-minute drive (or public bus ride) north-east of Queenstown. It’s filled with crowd-pleasing eateries, such as Italian-Kiwi fusion Aosta, as well as The Remarkable Sweet Shop. Nearby, you’ll find world-class wineries and restaurants like Amisfield, many with cosy stone cellars.

The TranzAlpine travels between Christchurch and Greymouth on the South Island. Passing through the Southern Alps, the 4.5-hour journey can feel like a real-life version of The Polar Express. In Scenic Plus class, enjoy a seasonal menu inspired by the mountains, rivers, gorges and plains you traverse.

Glide down the slopes at one of NZ’s many ski fields. Our top picks? For adventurous runs that deliver panoramic mountain views, head to Coronet Peak or Cardrona – about a 20-minute drive north and an hour north-east of Queenstown respectively. After carving up the powder, explore Queenstown. Insider tip: try the extra-creamy hot chocolate at Eichardt’s Bar.