A nest of sticky, salty confit pork, speckled with a few slices of crisp shallots, overflows from the fluffy steamed pockets churned out at this unassuming Soho nook. Though bao aficionados regularly queue to work their way through the five other fillings offered, the restaurant is still quietly unassuming, with orders taken by ticking the correct box of the slip of paper at your table.