Continuing the theme of good eating in once-were-club venues, Don Peppino's occupies the old Grand Pacific Blue Room of ’90s fame. Up several flights of wide, disconeon stairs is a bright, mirrored dining space with a long bar, round marble tables and plenty of pizzazz – Italian pizzazz, that is. Housemade pasta is a staple, with sauces changing daily. Share salami and grissini or fresh ricotta to start, tackle pork cotoletta for main and maybe finish with sorbet in a kitsch scooped-out citrus or pomegranate half. Despite a history of popular pop-ups, the former Alfio’s and Wilmer team looks like sticking around – at least until early 2020. Get there while you can.

1 Oxford Street, Paddington; (02) 9326 9302; open last Sunday of each month for lunch and WednesdaySaturday for dinner.

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