New York has its beeping taxis, Mumbai has its salty, sticky air and Sydney has its image. For visitors, that might be the sparkling beaches or iconic harbour landmarks. But as one of the 5.3 million people who call the city home, my mind goes to its vibrant food scene, varied neighbourhoods and the beloved “bin chickens” (aka the Australian white ibis) who stalk our streets. And, yes, the Sydney Opera House – the 50-year-old Modernist masterpiece never fails to inspire awe.

Ace Hotel Sydney

In Surry Hills, a dynamic neighbourhood a 30-minute walk from the city centre, the Ace Hotel is the city’s coolest stay; the art-filled lobby has become a hangout for local and visiting creatives. Central Station, which connects to all the city’s train lines, is an easy walk away, as is the 333 bus that goes direct to Bondi Beach. Save your beach jaunt for a Sunday so you can peruse Bondi Markets for local designer and vintage finds. Get there early to avoid the crowds and snag the best buys (then plunge into the Bondi Icebergs Pool at the beach’s southern end).

Recently, Sydney’s CBD has experienced a reawakening; there’s more outdoor dining, public art and green space, plus it’s more walkable and interlinked. My theory is that every Sydneysider has a favourite walk. One of mine starts at the Art Gallery of NSW and meanders through the Royal Botanic Garden to Circular Quay. It used to take an hour but with the gallery’s new (and free) Sydney Modern Project wing, you’ll need at least another hour for exploring. Follow the shoreline to the Museum of Contemporary Art, where, besides the fascinating art, its café and sculpture garden has a brilliant view of Sydney Harbour. If gazing at the water isn’t enough, jump on a Lime bike – an app based bike-share company – and cycle under the Harbour Bridge to Barangaroo and new swim spot Marrinawi Cove.

Barangaroo has plenty of glam dining options but local food-lovers are decamping to one of the oldest developed districts of Sydney, The Rocks. The pandemic saw fresh investment bring new life to the historic precinct. Le Foote serves big Mediterranean energy (and food) in a venue with a rich 185-year history. Drop in for a quick bite or stay for a feast. The mosaic-mural-flanked dining room is gorgeous but the more intimate courtyard is just the ticket for an early dinner. As is the cheese pie, Rangers Valley bavette and banana parfait.

Palazzo Salato

Another white-hot CBD haunt I’ve fallen in love with is Palazzo Salato. Aside from the spaghetti alla chitarra and 600-strong wine list, it has a bright, convivial feel – like an old-school trattoria but sexier. Afterwards, pop down to Ginny’s Canoe Club, a basement bar with first-rate bartenders close by.

Downhill from the Ace, the buzzy Thai Town precinct covers a couple of city blocks near the Capitol Theatre. I love Boon Cafe for breakfast and lunch (the pandan croissant is an essential) and the attached Jarern Chai grocery for snacks. Don’t miss the district’s dessert vendors (the coconut and pandan treats are addictive). Nearby, on Sussex Street in Chinatown, my favourite place to take friends is Spice World, a hot-pot institution and feast for the senses. Expect arcade games, a DIY sauce bar, Wagyu beef-dressed Barbie dolls and a Szechuan chilli soup base that arrives frozen in the shape of an adorable animal before dramatically melting down into a delicious spicy broth.

Ciccone & Sons

A guide to my city wouldn’t be complete without mentioning my home turf – and the birthplace of the urban Aboriginal civil rights movement – Redfern. Today, the neighbourhood brags a cool and creative feel and is a laid-back weeknight destination. My picks: Arcadia Liquors for drinks and toasties; The Bearded Tit, queer bar and LGBTQIA+ safe space, for the live shows; La Coppola for the best woodfired gluten-free pizza around; and Ciccone & Sons for traditional gelato so good it will haunt your dreams. Overwhelmed by choice? Don’t worry, we locals feel the same.

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SEE ALSO: 20 Unmissable Things to Do in Sydney

Image credit: Pip Christie (Bondi Icebergs); Anson Smart (Ace Hotel Sydney); Nikki To (Palazzo Salato); David Li (Ciccone & Sons); Josh Withers (Sydney Harbour)

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