Four open kitchens, each surrounded by a ring of seats, transforms Ross and Sunny Lusted’s new restaurant into a stage for Ross’s thoroughly modern cooking based on the age-old principles of flame, smoke and steam. The king of Barangaroo restaurants also boasts captivating details such as Japan-esque crockery (designed by the chef himself) and an engraved binchotan-charcoal ceiling. The menu is no less artful, celebrating produce from a quadrella of raw fish with crisp pear to a perfectly charry steak.