The problem plaguing Andrew McConnell’s Melbourne restaurant empire can be summed up in one word: choice.

Menus reliably described as “all killer, no filler” can leave diners in paroxysms of indecision, which makes the chef’s selection menu at his CBD wine bar Cumulus Up a fine idea indeed. You can expect a keenly designed parade of dishes that turns a wine bar graze into a fully-fledged meal: classic beef tartare jazzed up with fried anchovy, the soft lactic tang of buffalo mozzarella answered by white nectarine and a delightfully booze-sodden rum baba.

45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; (03) 9654 9545; open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner.

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