Sunda – Restaurant Review

Pan-Asian food meets its fun-filled future at Sunda, where chef Khanh Nguyen takes traditional Malaysian, Indonesian and Vietnamese dishes, gives them a modern shake then adds Australian native ingredients for good measure.

What could be a confusing mess is a triumph 
of imagination, thanks to 
the buttery-perfect roti with improbable (and improbably good) Vegemite-spiked curry and beef rendang buns with fiery roasted sambal and cooling pickled radish. There’s also a sublime take 
on otak-otak, the Malaysian grilled fishcake – reimagined here as a creamy parfait dotted with finger lime, perfect for scooping up with rugged rice cakes.

Housed in a city laneway haunt where the red-brick 
walls are lined with scaffolding (a bold design feature rather than structural necessity, 
we’re assured), Sunda tears asunder the clichés about 
Asian food.