France’s Saint-Émilion is a Gourmand’s Dream
It’s the Bordeaux region’s oldest active wine appellation but Saint-Émilion also has a surprisingly contemporary food scene.
Fine-diners
The UNESCO-listed medieval village, 50 minutes drive east of the city of Bordeaux and north of the better-known Médoc region, may be compact but it packs in an impressive range of high-end dining options. Michelin-starred Les Belles Perdrix (above), a five-minute drive away in the elegantly restored 18th-century Château Troplong Mondot, has its own vineyard making Premier Grand Cru Classé wines. Each dish here is a celebration of local produce and culinary craftsmanship, with chef David Charrier meticulously sourcing ingredients from the estate’s permaculture garden – fresh beans, peas and herbs served with roasted and glazed gnocchi and garlic. The oldest restaurant in town, Logis de la Cadène (below), opened in 1848 and also has a Michelin star. It draws discerning diners with its sophisticated take on the cuisine of south-western France.
Wine-bar fare
Saint-Émilion’s distinctive, full-bodied wines, including cabernet sauvignons and merlots, are on the list at L’Envers du Décor, a cherished spot where the locals swing by for a glass and bite to eat, such as pâté en croûte and steak tartare. At the lively Sous la Robe, the tipples are well-priced and the atmosphere convivial. Many of the district’s wineries host tastings, too, and are within a 10-minute walk from the village centre.
Good to go
Against the backdrop of the hilltop village’s historic architecture, the Saint-Émilion Covered Market in Place de l’Église Monolithe is a bustling hub for sampling local delicacies, such as cheeses, foie gras and jams. The Boulangerie Premier de Saint-Émilion bakes reliably good fresh bread, including crusty baguettes and the iconic Saint-Émilion macarons, bien sûr. Head to the Fromagerie La Moineaudière (12 rue de la Cadène; +33 6 23 56 70 68) for Saint-Marcellin, camembert or brie, which pair particularly well with the region’s wines. Walk to the end of rue de la Porte Saint-Martin in the village’s west and enjoy a picnic in the small park you’ll find on the left.
