How to See Whales, Puffins and Icebergs Along Canada’s Wild Atlantic Coast
When the temperature rises on Canada’s Atlantic coast, the region comes alive. Icebergs sail by, whales breach just off the shore and the streets are filled with the sounds of fiddles from boisterous kitchen parties. Whether you’re visiting a puffin colony or tucking into a decadent farm- or sea-to-table feast, get ready to immerse yourself in the country’s majestic eastern coast.
Nova Scotia
Hop aboard a fishing trawler in search of lobsters, kayak past granite cliffs and spot whales off the wild shores of Canadian province Nova Scotia.
Experience Halifax’s seafaring spirit
The capital of Nova Scotia, Halifax, is a sprawling harbour city that possesses the soul of a fishing village. Here, tall ships and naval vessels mingle with local trawlers and the faint taste of salt fills the air.
Stroll along the four-kilometre waterfront boardwalk, lined with colourful shops, artisan vendors and lively patios. Stop at the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market, open on Saturdays and Sundays, for local produce and handmade crafts, then wander to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic to explore the city’s nautical history, spanning Mi’kmaw traditions and artefacts from the RMS Titanic, which sank about 640 kilometres off this stretch of coast.
Grab a roll from Dave’s Lobster – the Some Fancy is a decadent iteration featuring lobster doused in butter, lemon and garlic and topped with fresh chives – then walk seven minutes to the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. Inside you’ll find acclaimed folk artist Maud Lewis’s iconic painted house, an ode to Nova Scotia’s rural life, and the bold paintings of Mi’kmaw artist Alan Syliboy combining petroglyphs and modern abstraction.
As the sun fades, settle in at historic pub The Lower Deck for live Celtic rhythms and sea shanties paired with cold pints of IPA.
Visit one of Canada’s most photographed villages
Heading 50 kilometres south-west of Halifax, the road to St Margaret’s Bay skirts past quiet fishing villages and sheltered inlets. Then, suddenly, the landscape shifts and trees give way to massive granite boulders, crowned by the striking Peggy’s Cove lighthouse – one of Canada’s most-photographed sights.
Five minutes up the road, an outdoor hydrothermal spa tucked between the spruce and the sea awaits at Oceanstone Resort. Soak in a hot pool and unwind in the salt-inhalation hammam before walking down to the kelp-strewn beach for an ice- cold plunge in the ocean.
Follow the Lighthouse Route
Nova Scotia’s 1049-kilometre Lighthouse Route starts and ends in Halifax and circles the province’s wind-sculpted South Shore, passing charming villages such as Chester, with its quiet streets and sailing heritage, and Mahone Bay, where three churches stand sentinel along the waterfront (keep a lookout for grey seals lazing in the sun).
Nearby Lunenburg’s brightly painted 18th-century wooden buildings have earned the town UNESCO World Heritage status. A guided walking tour will reveal the community’s history, from its shipbuilding past to its modern-day creative revival, with stops at the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic and the famed Bluenose II schooner when it’s in port.
Continue your journey to Liverpool, a town full of privateer legends, and Yarmouth, where the light from historic Cape Forchu Lighthouse – perched on a rocky promontory – is rivalled only by the vast starry skies that deliver views of the Milky Way.
Tidal wonders and whale watching in the Bay of Fundy
From Yarmouth, a coastal town that sits on Nova Scotia’s westernmost edge, the road curves into the Bay of Fundy – a place where the ocean surges in and out, resulting in the highest tides in the world. Walk along the exposed ocean floor at Burntcoat Head Park or see the dramatic “flowerpot” rock formations rising out of the water during low tide at New Brunswick’s Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park.
This region is also a vital nursery for the endangered North Atlantic right whale. Tours, which run between June and mid-October from Digby Neck, offer the best chance to see these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.
Be a lobster fisherman for a day
Lobster fishing is a balance of Nova Scotian tradition and sustainability. Each lobster is examined with precision – often, more are returned to the water than kept in order to ensure the population thrives. If the quarry is too small or a female has eggs, it goes back into the water.
Discover the Strait allows you to take part in a real catch with fishermen on the Northumberland Strait – the narrow channel that separates Nova Scotia from Prince Edward Island, known for its calm, sheltered waters. The day starts at 4am, when you’ll meet your captain and sternman in their oilskins, preparing the bait. As the sun lights up the sky in cotton-candy hues you’ll watch the crew haul handmade wooden traps and listen to colourful stories about daily life.
If early mornings aren’t your thing, head back towards Peggy’s Cove for a Sea-to-Table Lobster Adventure with East Coast Outfitters in nearby Terence Bay. You’ll paddle past wild granite islands before visiting a working lobster boat and learn about the locals’ way of life before cracking into just-caught lobster on the wharf as the sun sets.
Where to stay in Halifax
Muir Hotel
A luxe stay right on the harbourfront, with sleek nautical-inspired rooms, an expansive spa and a restaurant serving elevated regional cuisine.
Be charmed by the colourful coastal towns and warm, welcoming locals on Canada’s East Coast. Start planning your trip.
Newfoundland and Labrador
Venture to the eastern edge of Canada, where puffins nest, icebergs drift and rugged coastlines invite thrilling wildlife encounters.
Explore the untamed beauty of Gros Morne and beyond
To get to Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland and Labrador, catch a six-hour ferry from North Sydney to Channel-Port aux Basques or fly 1.5 hours from Halifax to Deer Lake. In Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the west coast of Newfoundland, an ancient inland fjord slices through mountains and parts of the earth’s mantle are exposed to the surface. At its core lies Bonne Bay, a vast loch that winds through the cliffs and forested hillsides, connecting the open Atlantic to the heart of the park. Led by an Indigenous guide, Gros Morne Adventures whisks you away by Zodiac to a secluded cove where you’ll walk among untouched flora, watch for minke whales and harbour seals and learn to make fire with stone-age tools before cooking bread over a fire.
On the outskirts of the park is Upper Humber Settlement, a charming farmstay rooted in sustainability that hosts Mark and Lauralee built by hand with locally sourced lumber. Summer months invite foraging tours through the backwoods and an abundance of berries, mushrooms and herbs. Finish the day with a four-course farm-to-table meal featuring game and garden-fresh veg before tucking yourself under a handmade quilt in the wood-panelled loft.
Meet puffins and icebergs in Bonavista
If Neverland existed, it might look like the Bonavista Peninsula on the east coast of Newfoundland and Labrador. In fact, its electric-green meadows and jagged rock formations were even a stand-in for the fairytale isle in the film Peter Pan & Wendy. With Seas the Day Boat Tours, you’ll have the opportunity to witness a wildlife trifecta – puffins, humpbacks and minke whales – as well as towering icebergs that have drifted down from Greenland.
Feel the energy of St John’s
A 3.5-hour drive south from Bonavista is the capital of Newfoundland and Labrador, St John’s. Being this far from the rest of the world gives this city an industrious yet playful energy. Colourful houses cling to steep streets that overlook the dramatic natural harbour and spirited accordion-driven tunes bellow out from the pubs along George Street.
Here the culinary scene is driven by the island’s rich landscapes and waters. At Terre, you can savour dishes such as zucchini flowers stuffed with salt cod and smoked Arctic char with challah croutons. The herbs and edible wildflowers, grown in garden beds just outside, add a fresh touch to the plate.
For adventure of a different kind, venture just south of the city with Ocean Quest Adventures to kayak among icebergs. You’ll get close enough to hear the ice crack as it melts and shifts. Or depart from picturesque Quidi Vidi, just five minutes from downtown, on a cod fishing tour that finishes with feasting on your freshly caught bounty.
Where to stay in St John’s
Alt Hotel St John’s
Check in to this eclectic hotel with cosy rooms that overlook the harbour.
Extend your stay
Looking to spend even longer in Atlantic Canada? Here are three add-ons to your itinerary to consider.
Savour Prince Edward Island’s bounty
It’s an easy 75-minute trip to Prince Edward Island by ferry from Caribou, Nova Scotia. Known as Canada’s food island, Prince Edward is peppered with fertile farms and thriving fisheries that provide a plethora of fresh ingredients. Dig for clams on red-sand beaches and join fun events such as the Festival of Small Halls, held each June, packed with music, dance and storytelling.
Stay at the edge of the world
Perched on a remote island off the north-east coast of Newfoundland and Labrador, Fogo Island Inn feels like it’s at the end of the world. The hyper-local stay sources everything from produce to bed linen from the surrounding community, making this an extraordinary example of regenerative travel that supports both the local economy and spirit.
Drive the Cabot Trail
Hoping to spot moose and bald eagles in the wild? Your best bet is to follow the 298-kilometre Cabot Trail that winds through Cape Breton Island’s boreal forests, rugged cliff tops and quaint villages. Along the way, stop at Eskasoni Cultural Journeys to learn about Mi’kmaw traditions and connect with the island’s Indigenous heritage. From North Sydney, you can catch the ferry to Newfoundland for the next leg of your adventure.
Watching icy behemoths float along Iceberg Alley is something you must see for yourself. Plan your trip now.
