Canada’s Answer to Tuscany Will Totally Surprise You

Some parts of the Thompson Okanagan, a richly contrasting region in the southern interior of British Columbia, Canada, will have you convinced that you’ve landed in Tuscany. You’ll find verdant vineyards cascading down to pristine lakes, rolling hills and that laidback, dolce vita vibe that comes with having so much food, culture and sunshine packed into one place. 

Other parts are unlike anywhere else on the planet. “We have this almost harsh, dry mountain landscape behind us, with desert sage and greasewood, so it's really brown,” says Justin Hall, estate winemaker at Nk’Mip Cellars and North America’s first Indigenous winemaker. “That’s contrasted by the lake, a beautiful dark blue, and then the vineyards which are this gorgeous green that becomes yellow in the autumn.” 

The Nk’Mip Cellars winery is owned by the Osoyoos Indian Band – a community of Syilx People who have lived here for millennia – in partnership with Arterra Wines Canada. Producing a range of reds (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah and pinot noir among them) and whites (including chardonnay and riesling), it’s located in the South Okanagan part of the region, which is typified by a semi-arid brushland that’s often referred to as Canada’s only desert. But here, instead of desolate dunes you’ll find sun-baked earth with flowering cacti, roaming bobcats and scorpions with exoskeletons that glow under a UV light – and right next door is a lake and lush rows of crops. 

A diverse range of soil profiles and microclimates in the Okanagan Valley support more than 60 different grape varietals, with more than 40 wineries just in the area surrounding Osoyoos and the town of Oliver. Championship golf courses, desert trails ideal for birdwatching and seasonal blooms, plus glacial lake waters perfect for swimming, paddling and boating, offer additional reasons to linger here. 

Respect for the land and the quality of the crops runs deep. Nearby, the tiny town of Cawston is an organic farming powerhouse with more than 100 certified organic growers. Nk’Mip Cellars also uses sustainable practices that reflect an innate respect for nature. “The moment you go through and spray and poison your soils, you’re asking for trouble,” says Hall. “When I die and my kids or any other tribe members inherit it, I want the land to be better than the land I came to.” 

The entire Thompson Okanagan region is characterised by a hyperlocal farm-to-table lifestyle. “When you go to a restaurant, you’ll realise the dill was grown in that garden right there, and the cilantro and the cherries, just on and on and on,” says Hall. “Almost everything is from a local garden – and it was all picked this morning or yesterday. It didn’t get picked green and it wasn’t shipped hundreds of kilometres. Farm fresh is the only real way to taste food.”

Go further around the South and Central Okanagan

Savour the best of the food and wine scene, connect with Indigenous communities and enjoy the outdoors.

Oliver and Osoyoos, South Okanagan

Osoyoos is a hip desert town with cool boutiques and vibrant street murals that capture local history and culture; most of these can be found on or around Main Street. Head to Unity for an eclectic mix of street and skatewear displayed alongside nostalgic recreations of regional institutions, including a replica of a diner-style café opened by displaced Japanese Canadians who were held in World War II internment camps. 

With nearly 50 per cent of all British Columbia’s vines in its vicinity, Oliver, 20 kilometres north of Osoyoos, is known as the Wine Capital of Canada. At District Wine Village, just outside of Oliver, 12 local wineries, plus a brewer and a distiller come together at a striking, circular complex with a restaurant and regular live music.

Next to Nk’Mip Cellars, with rooms overlooking the vines, Spirit Ridge Resort is the perfect base. Relax on a small private beach on Osoyoos Lake, get pampered with a Desert Sacred Mud Wrap followed by sage and cedar oil massage, then dine on elevated vineyard cuisine inspired by Syilx creation stories at the resort’s signature restaurant, The Bear, The Fish, The Root and The Berry. The Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre is also just a five-minute walk up the road, where interpreters can take you through the culture, traditions and significance of the land and wildlife.  

Penticton, South Okanagan

With a lake on both sides of the city, Penticton is a popular spot for watersports and sandy beaches. Fuel-free local travel is keenly encouraged and made very attractive by having more than 80 wineries, 10 breweries and cideries and three distilleries within walking distance. Not sure where to start? Follow a trail: the Penticton Ale Trail for some of Canada’s best craft brews, the Kettle Valley Rail Trail for epic biking or hiking along a decommissioned railway, or a Downtown Trail of the culinary and cultural experiences in the centre. You can also float across the city on the channel, riding an inflatable tube or even a “party island” version, which seats four.

Kelowna, Central Okanagan

Follow the Kettle Valley Rail Trail north for long enough and you’ll come to the outskirts of Kelowna, the largest city in the Thompson Okanagan, where the buzz and benefits of urban life meet the natural beauty and adventures that come with being located among mountains and water. One day, you can be attending a festival, visiting an art gallery or having a late night out on the town; the next you could be mountain biking, hiking, climbing, golfing or even hitting the slopes in winter. There are more than 40 wineries around Kelowna, with the first grapes planted back in 1859. Download the #exploreKelowna Wine Trails Pass to follow curated routes and earn points as you make your way around the wineries. 

This region is on the unceded territory of the Syilx people. Moccasin Trails offers the opportunity to learn more about them on an Indigenous cultural tour, including a traditional food and plant walk, or a five-day immersive cultural journey.

When to go

The Thompson Okanagan is truly a year-round destination but autumn (late August to early October) is when you can experience prime harvest time (best enjoyed on a self-guided farm-to-table tour) and a vibrant landscape of changing colours.

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