Big mountains mean big possibilities in the highlands of the South Island.

Hollywood film crews have long made the 3.5-hour journey south-west of Christchurch to the cinematic vistas of the Southern Alps. With remarkable landscapes, fine dining and actionpacked activities, this region is anything but a supporting character.

Scenic touring

Mackenzie’s gently winding roads and mountain views make for stunning driving. Start in Tekapo, on the shores of the lake of the same name, before heading up to the Church of the Good Shepherd, a quaint stone shrine to the area’s early pioneers. Drive for 40 minutes south-west to Twizel and stop for a sandwich, pie or sweet treat from local favourite Twizel Bakery Cafe. A further 50 minutes north and you’ll be in the shadow of mighty Aoraki/Mount Cook – New Zealand’s highest mountain – and it’s just an hour from here to Lake Ōhau for amazing sunsets.

Starry, starry nights

A dazzling number of stars can be seen just outside Twizel, which sits within the largest Dark Sky Reserve in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s also where you’ll find SkyScape, a trio of solar-powered cottages. Designed by New Zealand architect Ian Perry to reflect the angles of the surrounding ranges, the property boasts plenty of places to enjoy the spectacular nightly show thanks to the cottages’ glass ceilings and walls (there are also outdoor bathtubs). The outlook is equally dreamy at sunrise – you can watch the sky turn orange, red, yellow and lavender from your bed.

Warming fare

The four-course Trust The Chef offering at Mt Cook Lakeside Retreat’s on-site restaurant is centred on regional New Zealand dishes prepared with European finesse. Mains such as wild Fiordland venison and Mount Cook alpine salmon – hatched and raised just 10 minutes away in Lake Pukaki – are standouts, as are the appetisers of smoked bacon terrine with housemade pickles, avocado salsa and whipped feta or chicken liver pâté with orange jelly and crostini. After dinner, venture across the grounds to the candle-filled, toasty-warm wine cellar to sip wine, whisky or hot chocolate next to a crackling fire. On a clear night, head upstairs to gaze through the telescope at the glittering heavens.

Alpine antics

Whether by foot, saddle or four wheels, Mackenzie has something for every kind of adventurer. Tackle new terrain with Mt Cook Glacier Guiding, on a tour that takes you over a turquoise lake to Tasman Glacier’s icy surface via helicopter. Sandwiched between snowy peaks, the landscape is exquisite, especially if your guide leads you through the twisting passages of an ice cave; you’ll feel like you’re inside a glowing topaz. Set a more relaxed pace with a 2.5-hour ride with Mackenzie Alpine Horses that takes you up hills, through woods and around shimmering Lake Tekapo. The calm rescue horses, like 16-yearold Tommy, are especially gentle if you’ve never ridden before. Otherwise, you can bounce along in a Land Rover through rugged terrain and meltwater rivers on a guided trip with Tekapō Adventures. The pit stop near a waterfall that pours into the Cass River, wreathed in a misty rainbow, provides a singular sight.

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