On the slopes of an active volcano, Sicily’s Mount Etna wine region has unique terroir and traditions.

Mount Etna pulses with energy – and not just the seismic kind. The volcano that dominates eastern Sicily has also emerged as one of Italy’s premier wine destinations. Here, the wild landscape of black lava and green vines is complemented by a range of elegant, fruit-forward reds and fresh, aromatic whites made from native grapes. You’ll need your own wheels to get around (unless you trust your fate to the thrice-daily trains that ply the narrow-gauge Circumetnea railway) or stay put and sign up for a half- or full-day course at the Etna Wine School, run by locally based American expert Benjamin North Spencer. Below, the best places to eat and drink in Mount Etna, Sicily.

Image credit: Benanti

For citrusy whites: Benanti

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In an area of small independent wineries and farmhouse tasting experiences, Benanti is the grand exception, hosting visitors in an elegant 19th-century villa at the centre of the estate. Tastings are prefaced by a tour of the Monte Serra vineyard, whose curving terraces planted with bush-trained vines seem a work of land art. Located not far from Catania on the volcano’s south-eastern slopes, Benanti has a persuasive range of reds but gives equal attention to white wines, such as the flagship Pietra Marina, a saline, citrusy stunner that can age for a decade or more.

For diverse reds: Tenuta Tascante

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Sicilian winemaking family Tasca d’Almerita rrived in the region in 2007, investing in four prime plots on the northern side of Etna where the nerello mascalese grape delivers a range of diverse reds. An ancient palmento (millstone) wine cellar above the spectacular Pianodario vineyard was restored by a Milanese design studio in 2022. Today it has tastings that include two reds from single contradas – micro-zones that are similar to the climats of Burgundy.

Image credit: Giorlamo Russo

For Etna Rosso: Girolamo Russo

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Giuseppe Russo named his estate near Passopisciaro after his late father, who first cultivated these vineyards. That speaks volumes about the respect for tradition of a man whose wines are among the most consistent and beguiling of those produced on the volcano’s northern slopes. They include one of the area’s most impressive entry-level Etna Rossos, ’A Rina. Join a tasting in the restored farmhouse at the Feudo vineyard, which also hosts a series of autumn concerts.

Image credit: San Giorgio e il Drago

For a family-made feast: San Giorgio e il Drago

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Spend some time with Etna winemakers and before long you’ll end up in this classy family-run trattoria in the centre of Randazzo. Here, seasonal, typically Sicilian dishes such as pasta with wild asparagus or chef-matriarch Mamma Paolina’s legendary braised rabbit accompany an encyclopaedic local wine list.

For a Michelin Star experience: Zash

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Chef Giuseppe Raciti was just 29 when he took over the reins of this boutique hotel’s restaurant, in Riposto, in 2014. Inside, contemporary minimalist design defers to the weathered magnificence of the setting – a centuries-old press and cellar. The Michelin-starred eatery’s cuisine plays a similar game, rooting creative verve in local traditions and ingredients.

Image credit: Monaci delle Terre Nere

For a good night's sleep: Monaci delle Terre Nere

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Since it launched in 2012, this delightful property on 25 hectares near the town of Zafferana Etnea has evolved from a six-room bolthole to a mid-sized resort. Open from March until December, it covers all bases thanks to its mix of standalone villas with private pools and garden-view rooms and suites. Most of the produce served in the onsite Locanda Nerello restaurant comes from the estate’s organic farm, which has 150 varieties of heirloom fruit trees. Without ever going out the gate, you can take a cooking class, go hiking, cycling and horseriding or take the kids to feed the hens and gather eggs.

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